[Clark, September 1, 1806]
Monday 1st of September 1806
Musquitors very troublesom last night, we set out at the usial hour and
had not proceeded on far before the fog became So thick that we were
oblige to come too and delay half an hour for the fog to pass off which
it did in Some measure and we again proceded on R. Jo. Fields and
Shannon landed on an Ponceras Island to try to kill Some deer which was
Seen on the beech and the Canoes all passed them at 9 A. M we passed
the enterance of River Quiequur which had the Same appearance it had
when we passed up water rapid and of a milky white Colour about two
miles below the Quicurre, 9 Indians ran down the bank and beckened to
us to land, they appeared to be a war party, and I took them to be
Tetons and paid no kind of attention to them further than an enquirey
to what tribe they belonged, they did not give me any answer, I prosume
they did not understand the man who Spoke to them as he Spoke but
little of their language. as one Canoe was yet behind we landed in an
open Commanding Situation out of Sight of the indians deturmined to
delay untill they Came up. about 15 minits after we had landed Several
guns were fired by the indians, which we expected was at the three men
behind. I calld out 15 men and ran up with a fill deturmination to
Cover them if possible let the number of the indians be what they
might. Capt Lewis hobled up on the bank and formed the remainder of the
party in a Situation well calculated to defend themselves and the
Canoes &c. when I had proceeded to the point about 250 yards I
discovered the Canoe about 1 mile above & the indians where we had left
them. I then walked on the Sand beech and the indians came down to meet
me I gave them my hand and enquired of them what they were Shooting at,
they informed me that they were Shooting off their guns at an old Keg
which we had thrown out of one of the Canoes and was floating down.
those Indians informed me they were Yanktons, one of the men with me
knew one of the Indians to be the brother of young Durion's wife.
finding those indians to be Yanktons I invited them down to the boats
to Smoke. when we arived at the Canoes they all eagerly Saluted the
Mandan Chief, and we all Set and Smoked Several pipes. I told them that
we took them to be a party of Tetons and the fireing I expected was at
the three men in the rear Canoe and I had went up with a full intention
to kill them all if they had been tetons & fired on the Canoe as we
first expected, but finding them Yanktons and good men we were glad to
See them and take them by the hand as faithfull Children who had opened
their ears to our Councils. one of them Spoke and Said that their
nation had opened their years, & done as we had directed them ever
Since we gave the Meadel to their great Chief, and Should Continue to
do as we had told them we enquired if any of their Chiefs had gone down
with Mr. Durion, the answered that their great Chief and many of their
brave men had gone down, that the white people had built a house near
the Mahar village where they traded. we tied a piec of ribon to each
mans hair and gave them Some Corn of which they appeared much pleased.
The Mandan Cheif gave a par of elegant Legins to the principal man of
the indian party, which is an indian fashion. the Canoe & 3 men haveing
joined us we took our leave of this party telling them to return to
their band and listen to our councils which we had before given to
them. Their band of 80 Lodges were on plum Creek a fiew miles to north.
those nine men had five fusees and 4 bows & quivers of arrows. at 2
P.M. we came too on the upper point of bon homme opposit the antient
fortification and Sent out men to hunt on each Side and on the island.
and the canoes on each Side of the island to receive any meat might be
killed I walked on the N. E. main Shore found the bottom rich and
thickly covered with Peavine rich weed grass interwoven in Such a
manner with grape vines that I could not get through and was obliged to
assend a high plains the passing through which I also found tiresom.
the grass was nearly as high as my head and the musquitors excessively
bad. at the lower point of the Island all the Canoes & hunters Came
together. Labeech killed an Elk only the flesh of which was brought on
in the perogue. at this island we brought 2 years together or on the
1st of Septr. 1804 we Encamped at the lower point of this Island. after
we all Came together we again proceeded on down to a large Sand bar
imediately opposit to the place were we met the Yanktons in Council at
the Calumet Bluffs and which place we left on the it of Septr. 1804. I
observed our old flag Staff or pole Standing as we left it. the
musquitors excessively troublesom untill about 10 P.M. when the S W
wind became Strong and blew the most of them off. we came 52 miles to
day only with a head wind. the Country on either Side are butifull and
the plains much richer below the Queiquer river than above that river.
[Clark, September 2, 1806]
Tuesday 2nd of September 1806
Set out at the usial hour passed the River Jacque at 8 A.M. in the
first bottom below on the N E. Side I observed the remains of a house
which had been built since we passed up, this most probably was
McClellins tradeing house with the Yanktons in the Winter of 1804 & 5
the wind was hard a head & continued to increas which obliged us to lay
by nearly all day. as our Store of meat, I took with me 8 men and
prosued a Small Gang of Cows in the plains 3 miles and killed two which
was in very good order, had them butchered and each man took a load as
much as he Could Carry and returned to the Canoes, the wind Still high
and water rough we did not Set out untill near Sun Set we proceded to a
Sand bar a Short distance below the place we had Come too on account of
the wind and Encamped on a Sand bar, the woods being the harbor of the
Musquetors and the party without the means of Screaning themselves from
those tormenting insects. on the Sand bars the wind which generaly
blows moderately at night blows off those pests and we Sleep Soundly.
The wind Continued to blow hard from the Same point S. E untill 3 P. M
I saw in my walk to day Lynn and Slipery Elm. the plains are tolerably
leavel on each Side and very fertile. I saw 4 prarie fowls Common to
the Illinois, those are the highest up which have been Seen, white Oak
is very Common also white ash on the riveens and high bottoms. two
turkys killed to day of which the Indians very much admired being the
first which they ever Saw. Capt L. is mending fast--we made only 22
Miles to day.
[Clark, September 3, 1806]
Wednesday 3rd of September 1806
Wind Continued to blow very hard this morning. it Shifted last night to
the S. W. and blew the Sand over us in Such a manner as to render the
after part of the night very disagreeable. the wind luled a little and
we Set out and proceeded on with the wind a head passed the enterance
of redstone River on the N E. Side at 11 A M. and at half past 4 P. M
we Spied two boats & Several men, our party peyed their Ores and we
Soon landed on the Side of the Boats the men of these boats Saluted us
with their Small arms I landed & was met by a Mr. James Airs from
Mackanaw by way of Prarie Dechien and St. Louis. this Gentleman is of
the house of Dickson & Co. of Prarie de Chian who has a Licence to
trade for one year with the Sieoux he has 2 Batteaux loaded with
Merchendize for that purpose. This Gentleman receved both Capt. Lewis
and my Self with every mark of friendship he was himself at the time
with a chill of the agu on him which he has had for Several days. our
first enquirey was after the President of our country and then our
friends and the State of the politicks of our country &c. and the State
Indian affairs to all of which enquireys Mr. Aires gave us as
Satisfactory information as he had it in his power to have Collected in
the Illinois which was not a great deel. soon after we Landed a violent
Storm of Thunder Lightning and rain from the N W. which was violent
with hard Claps of thunder and Sharp Lightning which continued untill
10 P M after which the wind blew hard. I set up late and partook of the
tent of Mr. Aires which was dry. Mr. Aires unfortunately had his boat
Sunk on the 25 of July last by a violent Storm of Wind and hail by
which accident he lost the most of his usefull articles as he informd.
us. this Gentleman informed us of maney Changes & misfortunes which had
taken place in the Illinois amongst others the loss of Mr. Cady
Choteaus house and furniture by fire. for this misfortune of our friend
Choteaus I feel my Self very much Concernd &c. he also informed us that
Genl. Wilkinson was the governor of the Louisiana and at St. Louis. 300
of the american Troops had been Contuned on the Missouri a fiew miles
above it's mouth, Some disturbance with the Spaniards in the Nackatosh
Country is the Cause of their being Called down to that Country, the
Spaniards had taken one of the U, States frigates in the Mediteranean,
Two British Ships of the line had fired on an American Ship in the port
of New York, and killed the Capts. brother. 2 Indians had been hung in
St. Louis for murder and several others in jale. and that Mr. Burr &
Genl. Hambleton fought a Duel, the latter was killed &c. &c. I am happy
to find that my worthy friend Capt L's is so well as to walk about with
ease to himself &c., we made 60 Miles to day the river much crowded
with Sand bars, which are very differently Situated from what they were
when we went up.
[Clark, September 4, 1806]
Thursday 4th September 1806
The Musquitors became troublesom early this morning I rose at the usial
hour found all the party as wet as rain could make them. as we were in
want of Some tobacco I purposed to Mr. Airs to furnish us with 4
Carrots for which we would Pay the amount to any Merchant of St. Louis
he very readily agreed to furnish us with tobacco and gave to each man
as much as it is necessary for them to use between this and St. Louis,
an instance of Generossity for which every man of the party appears to
acknowledge. Mr. Airs also insisted on our accepting a barrel of
flourwe gave to this gentleman what Corn we Could Spear amounting to
about 6 bushels, this Corn was well Calculated for his purpose as he
was about to make his establishment and would have it in his power to
hull the Corn & The flower was very acceptable to us. we have yet a
little flour part of what we carried up from the Illinois as high as
Maria's river and buried it there untill our return &c. at 8 A. M we
took our leave and Set out, and proceeded on very well, at 11 A.M.
passed the Enterance of the big Sieoux River which is low, and at
meridian we came too at Floyds Bluff below the Enterance of Floyds
river and assended the hill, with Capt Lewis and Several men, found the
grave had been opened by the nativs and left half Covered. we had this
grave Completely filled up, and returned to the Canoes and proceeded on
to the Sand bar on which we encamped from the 12th to the 20th of
August 1804 near the Mahar Village, here we came to and derected every
wet article put out to dry, all the bedding of the party and Skins
being wet. as it was late in the evening we deturmined to continue all
night. had issued to each man of the party a cup of flour. we See no
Species of Game on the river as usial except wild geese and pelicans. I
observed near Sergt Floyds Grave a number of flurishing black walnut
trees, these are the first which I have seen decending the river. a
little before night Several Guns were heard below and in a direction
towards the Mahar village which induced us to suspect that Mr.
McClellin who we was informed was on his way up to trade with the
Mahars had arived at the Creek below and that those reports of Guns was
Some of his party out hunting. every thing being dry we derected the
Perogue & Canoes to be loaded and in readiness to Set out in the
morning early. at dark the Musquetors became troublesom and continued
So all night the party obtained but little Sleep--we made 36 miles only
to daye.
[Clark, September 5, 1806]
Friday 5th September 1806
The Musquetors being So excessively tormenting that the party was all
on board and we Set out at day light and proceeded on very well. here
the river is bordered on both sides with timber &c becoms much narrower
more Crooked and the Current more rapid and Crouded with Snags or
Sawyers than it is above, and continus So all day. We did not meet with
McClellen as we expected at the Creek. the report of the guns which was
heard must have been the Mahars who most probably have just arrived at
their village from hunting the buffalow. this is a Season they usialy
return to their village to Secure their Crops of Corn Beens punkins &c
&c. proceeded on very well passd. the blue Stone bluff at 3 P. M here
the river leaves the high lands and meanders through a low rich bottom.
Encamped on the S W Side on a Sand bar at a cut off a little below our
Encampment of the 9th of August 1804. haveing made 73 Miles to day-
Capt. Lewis still in a Convelesent State. We Saw no game on the Shores
to day worth killig only Such as pelicans Geese ducks, Eagles and Hawks
&c.-
[Clark, September 6, 1806]
Saturday 6th of September 1806
The Musquetors excessively troublesom we Set out early at the great Cut
off Saw a herd of Elk, we landed and Sent out Several hunters to kill
Some of the Elk, they returnd. without killing any as the Elk was wild
and ran off much fritened. I Sent the two Small Canoes on a head with
derections to hunt in two bottoms below, and after a delay of half an
hour proceeded on wind-hard a head at the lower point 7 of Pelecan
Island a little above the Petite River de Seeoux we met a tradeing boat
of Mr. Ag. Choteaux of St Louis bound to the River Jacque to trade with
the Yanktons, this boat was in Care of a Mr. Henry Delorn, he had
exposed all his loading and Sent out five of his hands to hunt they
Soon arived with an Elk. we purchased a gallon of whiskey of this man
and gave to each man of the party a dram which is the first Spiritious
licquor which had been tasted by any of them Since the 4 of July 1805.
Several of the party exchanged leather for linen Shirts and beaver for
Corse hats. Those men Could inform us nothing more than that all the
troops had movd. from the Illinois and that Genl. Wilkinson was
prepareing to leave St. Louis. We advised this trader to treat the
Tetons with as much Contempt as possible and Stated to him where he
would be benefited by such treatment &c &c. and at 1 P. M Set out those
men gave us 2 Shots from a Swivell they had on the bow of their boat
which we returned in our turn. proceeded on about 3 miles and Came up
with two of the hunters, they had not killd. any thing. at 5 miles we
over took the Canoe of the other hunters with Shannon in it floating
down, the two fields being in the woods behind we Came too on a Sand
bar on the N. E. Side and delayed all the after part of the day for the
two Fields, Sent out 3 men to hunt in the bottom up the river and
observe if they Saw any Sign of the hunters. the evening proved Cloudy
and the wind blew hard two pelicans were killed to day. we came 30
Miles only to day the 2 fieldses did not join us I think they are
below. The Chief & the Squaws & children are awarey of their journey.
Children cry &c.
[Clark, September 7, 1806]
Sunday 7th September 1806
as we were doubtfull that the two fieldses were behind I derected
Sergt. Ordway with 4 men to Continue untill Meridian and if those men
did not arive by that hour to proceed on. if we met with them at any
Short distance a gun Should be fired which would be a Signal for him to
proceed on. we had proceeded on about 8 miles by water and the distance
through not more than 1 mile when we Saw the fire of those 2 men, I
derected a gun fired as a Signal for Sergt. ordway to proceed on, and
took the boys on board. they had killed nothing & informed me they had
been Somewhat almd. at our delay, that the distance across from the
little Sieoux river was about 1 1/2 miles only, the bottoms thick and
Grass very high. we proceded on with a Stiff Breeze ahead (note the
evaperation on this portion of the Missouri has been noticed as we
assended this river, and it now appears to be greater than it was at
that time. I am obliged to replenish my ink Stand every day with fresh
ink at least 9/10 of which must evaperate.) we proceded on to a bottom
on the S W Side a little above the Soldiers river and Came too and Sent
out all the hunters. they killed 3 Elk which was at no great distance
we Sent out the men and had the flesh brought in Cooked and Dined.
Sergt. Ordway Came up & after takeing a Sumptious Dinner we all Set out
at 4 P M wind ahead as usial. at Dusk we came too on the lower part of
a Sand bar on the S W side found the Musquetors excessively tormenting
not withstanding a Stiff breeze from the S. E. a little after dark the
wind increased the Musquetors dispersed our Camp of this night is about
2 miles below our Encampment of the 4th of august 1804 ascending we
came 44 miles to day only
[Clark, September 8, 1806]
Munday 8th September 1806
Set out very early this morning, passed an old tradeing house on the S
W Side a few miles above the Council bluffs, at 11 A M we Came too at
the bluffs and Capt Lewis and myself walked up on the bluffs and around
to examine the Country and Situation more particularly, the Situation
appeared to us eaqually as eligable as when we passed up for an
establishment, the hill high and Commanding with a high rich bottom of
great extent below. we proceeded on very well all being anxious to get
to the River Platt to day they ply'd their orers very well, and we
arived at our old encampment at White Catfish Camp 12 miles above the
river platt at which place we lay from the 22th to the 26th of July
1804 here we encamped haveing made 78 Miles to day. The Missouri at
this place does not appear to Contain more water than it did 1000 Miles
above this, the evaperation must be emence; in the last 1000 miles this
river receives the water 20 rivers and maney Creeks Several of the
Rivers large and the Size of this river or the quantity of water does
not appear to increas any-
[Clark, September 9, 1806]
Tuesday 9th September 1806
Set out early at 8 A. M passed the enterance of the great river Platt
which is at this time low the water nearly clear the Current turbelant
as usial; the Sand bars which Choked up the Missouri and Confined the
river to a narrow Snagey Chanel are wastd a way and nothing remains but
a fiew Small remains of the bear which is covered with drift wood,
below the R. Platt the Current of the Missouri becomes evidently more
rapid than above and the Snags much more noumerous and bad to pass late
in the evening we arived at the Bald pated prarie and encamped
imediately opposit our encampment of the 16th and 17th of July 1804.
haveing made 73 miles only to day. The river bottoms are extencive rich
and Covered with tall large timber, and the hollows of the reveins may
be Said to be covered with timber Such as Oake ash Elm and Some walnut
& hickory. our party appears extreamly anxious to get on, and every day
appears produce new anxieties in them to get to their Country and
friends. My worthy friend Cap Lewis has entirely recovered his wounds
are heeled up and he Can walk and even run nearly as well as ever he
Could. the parts are yet tender &c. &.
The Musquetors are yet troublesom, tho not So much So as they were
above the River platt. the Climate is every day preceptably wormer and
air more Sultery than I have experienced for a long time. the nights
are now So worm that I sleep Comfortable under a thin blanket, a fiew
days past 2 was not more than Sufficient
[Clark, September 10, 1806]
Wednesday 10th of September 1806
we Set out very early this morning and proceeded on very well with wind
moderately a head at ____ P M we met a Mr. Alexander La fass and three
french men from St. Louis in a Small perogue on his way to the River
Platt to trade with the Pania Luup or Wolf Indians. this man was
extreemly friendly to us he offered us any thing he had, we axcepted of
a bottle of whisky only which we gave to our party, Mr. la frost
informed us that Genl. Wilkinson and all the troops had decended the
Mississippi and Mr. Pike and young Mr. Wilkinson had Set out on an
expedition up the Arkansaw river or in that direction after a delay of
half an hour we proceedd on about 3 miles and met a large perogue and 7
Men from St. Louis bound to the Mahars for the purpose of trade, this
perogue was in Charge of a Mt. La Craw, we made Some fiew enquiries of
this man and again proceeded on through a very bad part of the river
Crouded with Snags & Sawyers and incamped on a Sand bar about 4 miles
above the Grand Nemahar. we find the river in this timbered Country
narrow and more moveing Sands and a much greater quantity of Sawyers or
Snags than above. Great caution and much attention is required to Stear
Clear of all those dificuelties in this low State of the water. we made
65 Miles to day. we Saw Deer rackoons and turkies on the Shores to day
one of the men killed a racoon which the indians very much admired.
[Clark, September 11, 1806]
Thursday 11th Septr. 1806
a heavy Cloud and wind from the N W. detained us untill after Sunrise
at which time we Set out and proceeded on very well, passed the nemahar
which was low and did not appear as wide as when we passed up. Wolf
river Scercely runs at all, at 3 P. M we halted a little above the
Nadawa river on the S. Side of the Missouri to kill Some meat that
which we killed a fiew days past being all Spoiled. Sent out 6 hunters
they killed and brought in two Deer only, we proceeded on a fiew miles
below the Nadawa Island and encamped on a Small Isld. near the N. E.
Side, haveing Came 40 Miles only to day, river rapid and in maney
places Crouded with Snag's. I observe on the Shores much deer Sign--the
mosquitoes are no longer troublesome on the river, from what cause they
are noumerous above and not So on this part of the river I cannot
account. Wolves were howling in different directions this evening after
we had encamped, and the barking of the little prarie wolves resembled
those of our Common Small Dogs that 3/4 of the party believed them to
be the dogs of Some boat assending which was yet below us. the barking
of those little wolves I have frequently taken notice of on this as
also the other Side of the Rocky mountains, and their Bark so much
resembles or Sounds to me like our Common Small Cur dogs that I have
frequently mistaken them for that Speces of dog--The papaws nearly ripe
[Clark, September 12, 1806]
Friday 12th of September 1806
a thick fog a litile before day which blew off at day light. a heavy
Dew this morning. we Set out at Sunrise the usial hour and proceeded on
very well about 7 miles met 2 perogues from St. Louis one contained the
property of Mr. Choteau bound to the panias on River Platt, the other
going up trapping as high as the Mahars. here we met one of the french
men who had accompanied us as high as the Mandans he informed us that
Mr. McClellen was a fiew miles below the wind blew a head Soon after we
pased those perogues, we Saw a man on Shore who informed us that he was
one of Mr. McClellens party and that he was a Short distance below, we
took this man on board and proceeded on and Met Mr. McClellin at the
St. Michl. Prarie we came too here we found Mr. Jo. Gravelin the
Ricaras enterpreter whome we had Sent down with a Ricaras Chief in the
Spring of 1805 and old Mr. Durion the Sieux enterpreter, we examined
the instructions of those interpreters and found that Gravelin was
ordered to the Ricaras with a Speach from the president of the U.
States to that nation and some presents which had been given the Ricara
Cheif who had visited the U. States and unfortunately died at the City
of Washington, he was instructed to teach the Ricaras agriculture &
make every enquirey after Capt Lewis my self and the party Mr. Durion
was enstructed to accompany Gravelin and through his influence pass him
with his presents & by the tetons bands of Sieux, and to provale on
Some of the Principal chiefs of those bands not exceeding six to Visit
the Seat of the Government next Spring he was also enstructed to make
every enquirey after us. we made Some Small addition to his
instructions by extending the number of Chiefs to 10 or 12 or 3 from
each band including the Yanktons &c. Mr. McClellin receved us very
politely, and gave us all the news and occurrences which had taken
place in the Illinois within his knowledge the evening proveing to be
wet and Cloudy we Concluded to continue all night, we despatched the
two Canoes a head to hunt with 5 hunters in them
[Clark, September 13, 1806]
Saturday 13th September 1806
rose early Mr. McClellen gave each man a Dram and a little after
Sunrise we Set out the wind hard a head from the S E at 8 A M we landed
at the Camp of the 5 hunters whome we had Sent a head, they had killed
nothing, the wind being too high for us to proceed in Safty through the
emecity of Snags which was imediately below we concluded to lye by and
Sent on the Small Canoes a Short distance to hunt and kill Some meat,
we Sent out 2 men in the bottom they Soon returned with one turky and
informed that the rushes was so high and thick that it was impossible
to kill any deer. I felt my Self very unwell and derected a little
Chocolate which Mr. McClellen gave us, prepared of which I drank about
a pint and found great relief at 11 A.M. we proceeded on about 1 mile
and come up with the hunters who had killed 4 deer, here we delayed
untill 5 P. M when the hunters all joined us and we again proceded on
down a fiew miles and encamped on the N E Side of the Missouri haveing
decended 18 Miles only to day. the day disagreeably worm. one man
George Shannon left his horn and pouch with his powder ball and knife
and did not think of it untill night. I walked in the bottom in the
thick rushes and the Growth of timber Common to the Illinois Such as
cotton wood, Sycamore, ash mulberry, Elm of different Species, walnut,
hickory, horn beem, pappaw arrow wood willow, prickly ash, &c and Grape
vines, pees of 3 species &c &c. Birds most Common the buzzard Crow the
hooting owl and hawks, &c. &c.-
[Clark, September 14, 1806]
Sunday 14th Sept. 1806
Set out early and proceeded on very well. this being the part of the
Missouri the Kanzas nation resort to at this Season of the year for the
purpose of robbing the perogues passing up to other nations above, we
have every reason to expect to meet with them, and agreeably to their
Common Custom of examining every thing in the perogues and takeing what
they want out of them, it is probable they may wish to take those
liberties with us, which we are deturmined not to allow of and for the
Smallest insult we Shall fire on them. at 2 P.M. a little below the
lower of the old Kanzas Village we met three large boats bound to the
Yanktons and Mahars the property of Mr. Lacroy, Mr. Aiten & Mr. Coutau
all from St. Louis, those young men received us with great friendship
and pressed on us Some whisky for our men, Bisquet, Pork and Onions, &
part of their Stores, we continued near 2 hours with those boats,
makeing every enquirey into the state of our friends and Country &c.
those men were much affraid of meeting with the Kanzas. we Saw 37 Deer
on the banks and in the river to Day 5 of which we killed those deer
were Meager. we proceeded on to an Island near the middle of the river
below our encampment of the 1st of July 1804 and encamped haveing
decended only 53 miles to day. our party received a dram and Sung Songs
untill 11 oClock at night in the greatest harmoney.
[Clark, September 15, 1806]
Monday 15th of September 1806
we set out early with a Stiff Breeze a head saw Several deer Swiming
the river soon after we Set out. at 11 A.M. passed the enterance of the
Kanzas river which was very low, about a mile below we landed and Capt
Lewis and my Self assended a hill which appeared to have a Commanding
Situation for a fort, the Shore is bold and rocky imediately at the
foot of the hill, from the top of the hill you have a perfect Command
of the river, this hill fronts the Kanzas and has a view of the
Missouri a Short distance above that river. we landed one time only to
let the men geather Pappaws or the Custard apple of which this Country
abounds, and the men are very fond of. we discovered a Buck Elk on a
Small Island, and sent the 2 fields and Shannon in pursute of it they
Soon Came up with and killed the Elk, he was large and in fine order we
had his flesh Secured and divided. as the winds were unfabourable the
greater part of the day we only decended 49 Miles and encamped a Short
distance Above Hay Cabin Creek we are not tormented by the Musquetors
in this lower portion of the river, as we were above the river plat and
as high up as the Rochejhone and for a fiew miles up that river, and
above its enterance into the Missouri. we passd Some of the most
Charming bottom lands to day and the uplands by no means bad, all well
timberd. the weather disagreeably worm and if it was not for the
constant winds which blow from the S. and S E. we Should be almost
Suficated Comeing out of a northern Country open and Cool between the
Latd. Of 46° and 49° North in which we had been for nearly two years,
rapidly decending into a woody Country in a wormer Climate between the
Latds. 38°& 39° North is probably the Cause of our experiencing the heat
much more Senceable than those who have Continued within the parralel
of Latitude.
[Clark, September 16, 1806]
Tuesday 16th September 1806
we Set out early this morning and proceded on tolerably well the Day
proved excessively worm and disagreeable, So much So that the men rowed
but little, at 10 A M we met a large tradeing perogue bound for the
Panias we continued but a Short time with them. at 11 A. M we met young
Mr. Bobidoux with a large boat of six ores and 2 Canoes, the licenes of
this young man was to trade with the Panias Mahars and ottoes reather
an extroadanary a license for young a man and without the Seal of the
teritory anexed, as Genl. Wilkensons Signeture was not to this
instrement we were Somewhat doubtfull of it. Mr. Browns Signeture we
were not acquainted with without the Teritorial Seal. we made Some
enquireys of this young man and Cautioned him against prosueing the
Steps of his brother in attempting to degrade the American Charector in
the eyes of the Indians. we proceeded on to an Island a little above
our encampment of the 16th & 17th of June 1804 haveing Came 52 miles
only to day.
[Clark, September 17, 1806]
Wednesday 17th September 1806
We Set out as usial early pass the Island of the little Osage Village
which is considered by the navigater of this river to be the worst
place in it. at this place water of the Missouri is confined between an
Island and the S E main Shore and passes through a narrow chanel for
more than 2 miles which is crouded with Snags in maney places quite
across obligeing the navigater to pica, his passage between those Snags
as he can, in maney places the current passing with great velocity
against the banks which cause them to fall &c. at 11 A.M. we met a
Captain McClellin late a Capt. of Artily of the U States Army assending
in a large boat. this gentleman an acquaintance of my friend Capt.
Lewis was Somewhat astonished to See us return and appeared rejoiced to
meet us. we found him a man of information and from whome we received a
partial account of the political State of our Country, we were makeing
enquires and exchangeing answers &c. untill near mid night. this
Gentleman informed us that we had been long Since given out by the
people of the U S Generaly and almost forgotton, the President of the
U. States had yet hopes of us; we received some civilities of Capt.
McClellin, he gave us Some Buisquit, Chocolate Sugar & whiskey, for
which our party were in want and for which we made a return of a barrel
of corn & much obliges to him. Capt. McClellin informed us that he was
on reather a speculative expedition to the confines of New Spain, with
the view to entroduce a trade with those people. his plan is to
proceede up this river to the Entcrance of the river platt there to
form an establishment from which to trade partially with the Panas &
Ottoes, to form an acquaintance with the Panias and provail Some of
their principal Chiefs to accompany him to Santa Fee where he will
appear in a stile calculated to atract the Spanish government in that
quarter and through the influence of a handsome present he expects to
be promited to exchange his merchindize for Silver & gold of which
those people abound. he has a kind of introductory Speach from Govr.
Wilkinson to the Panias and Ottoes and a quantity of presents of his
own which he purposes distributing to the Panias and ELeatans with a
view to gain their protection in the execution of his plans, if the
Spanish Governmt. favour his plans, he purposes takeing his merchendize
on mules & horses which Can easily be procured of the panias, to Some
point convenient to the Spanish Settlements within the Louisiana
Teritory to which place the inhabitants of New mexico may meet him for
the purpose of trade &c. Capt McClellins plan I think a very good one
if strictly prosued &c.
we Sent 5 hunters a head with directions to halt below Grand river and
hunt untill we arived which would be in the morning. This day proved
worme. we decended only 30 miles to day and encamped 4 miles above
Grand river on S E. Side.
[Clark, September 18, 1806]
Thursday 18th of September 1806
we rose early Capt McClellin wrote a letter and we took our leave, and
proceeded on passed the Grand river at 7 A M. a Short distance below we
came up with our hunters, they had killed nothing. at 10 oClock we Came
too and gathered pottows to eate we have nothing but a fiew Buisquit to
eate and are partly compelled to eate poppows which we find in great
quantities on the Shores, the weather we found excessively hot as
usial. the lands fine particularly the bottoms. a charming Oake bottom
on the S E Side of the Missouri above the 2 Charletons rivers we find
the Current of this part of the Missouri much more jentle than it was
as we assended, the water is now low and where it is much confin'd it
is rapid. we saw very little appearance of deer, Saw one bear at a
distance and 3 turkeys only to day. our party entirely out of
provisions Subsisting on poppaws. we divide the buiskit which amounted
to nearly one buisket per man, this in addition to the poppaws is to
last is down to the Settlement's which is 150 miles the party appear
perfectly contented and tell us that they can live very well on the
pappaws. we made 52 miles to day only. one of our party J. Potts
complains very much of one of his eyes which is burnt by the Sun from
exposeing his face without a cover from the Sun. Shannon also complains
of his face & eyes &c. Encamped on an Island nearly opposit to the
enterance of Mine river.
[Clark, September 19, 1806]
Friday 19th of Sept. 1806
Set out this morning a little after day & proceeded on very well the
men ply their oares & we decended with great velocity, only Came too
once for the purpose of gathering pappows, our anxiety as also the wish
of the party to proceed on as expeditiously as possible to the Illinois
enduce us to continue on without halting to hunt. we Calculate on
ariveing at the first Settlements on tomorrow evening which is 140
miles, and objecet of our party is to divide the distance into two
days, this day to the Osarge River, and tomorrow to the Charriton a
Small french Village--we arived at the Enterance of Osage River at dark
and encamped on the Spot we had encamped on the 1st & 2d of June 1804
haveing Came 72 miles. a very singular disorder is takeing place
amongst our party that of the Sore eyes. three of the party have their
eyes inflamed and Sweled in Such a manner as to render them extreamly
painfull, particularly when exposed to the light, the eye ball is much
inflaimed and the lid appears burnt with the Sun, the cause of this
complaint of the eye I can't account for. from it's Sudden appearance I
am willing to believe it may be owing to the reflection of the Sun on
the water
[Clark, September 20, 1806]
Saturday 20th Septr. 1806
as three of the party was unabled to row from the State of their eyes
we found it necessary to leave one of our Crafts and divide the men
into the other Canoes, we left the two Canoes lashed together which I
had made high up the River Rochejhone, those Canoes we Set a drift and
a little after day light we Set out and proceeded on very well. The
Osage river very low and discharges but a Small quantity of water at
this time for so large a river. at meridian we passed the enterance of
the Gasconnade river below which we met a perogue with 5 french men
bound to the Osarge Gd. village. the party being extreemly anxious to
get down ply their ores very well, we Saw Some cows on the bank which
was a joyfull Sight to the party and Caused a Shout to be raised for
joy at ____ P M we Came in Sight of the little french Village called
Charriton the men raised a Shout and Sprung upon their ores and we soon
landed opposit to the Village. our party requested to be permited to
fire off their Guns which was alowed & they discharged 3 rounds with a
harty Cheer, which was returned from five tradeing boats which lay
opposit the village. we landed and were very politely received by two
young Scotch men from Canada one in the employ of Mr. Aird a Mr. ____
and the other Mr. Reed, two other boats the property of Mr. Lacomb &
Mr. ____ all of those boats were bound to the Osage and Ottoes. those
two young Scotch gentlemen furnished us with Beef flower and Some pork
for our men, and gave us a very agreeable supper. as it was like to
rain we accepted of a bed in one of their tents. we purchased of a
Citizen two gallons of Whiskey for our party for which we were obliged
to give Eight dollars in Cash, an imposition on the part of the
Citizen. every person, both French and americans Seem to express great
pleasure at our return, and acknowledged them selves much astonished in
Seeing us return. they informed us that we were Supposed to have been
lost long Since, and were entirely given out by every person &c.
Those boats are from Canada in the batteaux form and wide in perpotion
to their length. their length about 30 feet and the width 8 feet &
pointed bow & Stern, flat bottom and rowing Six ores only the
Skeneckeity form. those Bottoms are prepared for the navigation of this
river, I beleive them to be the best Calculated for the navigation of
this river of any which I have Seen. they are wide and flat not Subject
to the dangers of the roleing Sands, which larger boats are on this
river. the American inhabitants express great disgust for the govermt
of this Teritory. from what I can lern it arises from a disapmt. of
getting all the Spanish Grants Confirmed-. Came 68 ms. to day.
[Clark, September 21, 1806]
Sunday 21st Septr. 1806
rose early this morning Colected our men Several of them had axcepted
of the invitation of the Citizens and visited their families. at half
after 7 A. M we Set out. passed 12 canoes of Kickapoos assending on a
hunting expedition. Saw Several persons also Stock of different kind on
the bank which reviv'd the party very much. at 3 P M we met two large
boats assending. at 4 P M we arived in Sight of St. Charles, the party
rejoiced at the Sight of this hospital village plyed thear ores with
great dexterity and we Soon arived opposit the Town, this day being
Sunday we observed a number of Gentlemen and ladies walking on the
bank, we Saluted the Village by three rounds from our blunderbuts and
the Small arms of the party, and landed near the lower part of the
town. we were met by great numbers of the inhabitants, we found them
excessively polite. we received invitations from Several of those
Gentlemen a Mr. Proulx, Taboe, Decett, Tice Dejonah & Quarie and
several who were pressing on us to go to their houses, we could only
visit Mr. Proulx and Mr. Deucett in the course of the evening. Mr.
Querie under took to Supply our party with provisions &c. the
inhabitants of this village appear much delighted at our return and
seem to vie with each other in their politeness to us all. we Came only
48 miles today. the banks of the river thinly Settled &c.
[Clark, September 22, 1806]
Monday 22nd of Sept. 1806
This morning being very wet and the rain Still Continueing hard, and
our party being all Sheltered in the houses of those hospitable people,
we did not think proper to proceed on untill after the rain was over,
and continued at the house of Mr. Proulx. I took this oppertunity of
writeing to my friends in Kentucky &c. at 10 A M. it seased raining and
we Colected our party and Set out and proceeded on down to the
Contonemt. at Coldwater Creek about 3 miles up the Missouri on it's
Southern banks, at this place we found Colo. Hunt & a Lieut Peters &
one Company of Artillerists we were kindly received by the Gentlemen of
this place. Mrs. Wilkinson the Lady of the Govr. & Genl. we wer Sorry
to find in delicate health.
we were honored with a Salute of ____ Guns and a harty welcom at this
place there is a publick Store kept in which I am informed the U. S
have 60000$ worth of indian Goods
[Clark, September 23, 1806]
Thursday 23rd of Septr. 1806
we rose early took the Chief to the publick store & furnished him with
Some clothes &c. took an early breckfast with Colo. Hunt and Set out
decended to the Mississippi and down that river to St. Louis at which
place we arived about 12 oClock. we Suffered the party to fire off
their pieces as a Salute to the Town. we were met by all the village
and received a harty welcom from it's inhabitants &. here I found my
old acquaintance Majr. W. Christy who had Settled in this town in a
public line as a Tavern Keeper. he furnished us with Store rooms for
our baggage and we accepted of the invitation of Mr. Peter Choteau and
took a room in his house we payed a friendly visit to Mr August Chotau
and Some of our old friends this evening. as the post had departed from
St. Louis Capt Lewis wrote a note to Mr. Hay in Kahoka to detain the
post at that place untill 12 tomorrow which was reather later than his
usial time of leaveing it
[Clark, September 24, 1806]
Wednesday 24th of September 1806
I sleped but little last night however we rose early and Commencd
wrighting our letters Capt. Lewis wrote one to the presidend and I
wrote Govr. Harrison & my friends in Kentucky and Sent of George
Drewyer with those letters to Kohoka & delivered them to Mr. Hays &. we
dined with Mr. Chotoux to day, and after dinner went to a Store and
purchased Some Clothes, which we gave to a Tayler and derected to be
made. Capt Lewis in opening his trunk found all his papers wet, and
Some Seeds spoiled
[Clark, September 25, 1806]
Thursday 25th of Septr. 1806
had all of our Skins &c. Suned and Stored away in a Storeroom of Mr.
Caddy Choteau. payed Some visits of form, to the gentlemen of St.
Louis. in the evening a dinner & Ball
[Clark, September 26, 1806]
Friday 26th of September 1806
a fine morning we commenced wrighting &c.
Part III: Journal Entries of September 1806
- Details
- Written by: Meriwether Lewis and and William Clark
- Category: The Journals of Lewis and Clark 1804-1806